how do you assemble rov 2.6

I don't know much about grippers but I am very familiar with servo's. To answer your question, any servo that fit's will work. It's just a matter of how much torque you will require if you get (or build) a gripper. You can go to just about any hobby store and get a servo. They start inexpensive, nylon geared and low torque to metal geared, high torque servo's. The only change will be the amount of current required to run the servo. I small inexpensive one won't pull much current but it won't pull much of anything else either. If you want to get something reliable I suggest a metal geared high torque servo. They are more money and will pull more current. I have a 2.6 ROV and found the servo that came with it lacking a bit (it worked but at extreme up and down it would stall and burn out. I build R/C aircraft with mechanical retracts and pulling up three wheels takes a lot of force. I use the metal geared high torques and have never had a problem with them. A servo in the "good" range will cost you about 15...

Jeffrey, Maybe I got on the train at the wrong station but didn't you get a camera with the ROV ? should have been the Genius HD 1024 at least. Are you building your own ROV or do you have a kit from OpenRov ?? That way I can be sure I am giving you the correct answer. The Genius comes with the 2.6 I know that and I think it is still the pick on the 2.8. You can't really lose if you are building a scratch built if you were to get the Genius as it will work in all the OpenROV rov's. Steve

Phil, What were you putting in for numbers in the subnet mask, The subnet mask should be just a stack of 5's...like this...555.555.555 If you just click once in the subnet box (yup, the place you should see the 5's) If you make sure it's an empty box (since you are getting an error I am assuming you didn't get the numbers to "stick" Make sure your IP is 192.168.254.1 (first box in the ethernet section) then just click in the second box (subnet) and the 5's usually pop up. If all goes well you should be able to load your browser and address the ROV. That should be 192.168.254.1:8080 If you can't get contact you can change the IP to 192.168.254.2 (but when you address the ROV keep the last number a 1. Sometimes you will already have something else on the 192.168.254.1 (every dang router, software, so forth use the 192.168.254.1 address. You can change the last number (1) to a 2 or 10 to get the IP away from any "obstructions" Let me know if you get things running..best of luck. Steve

did you go into the control panel and look at add a new device...the first linein the box that pops up will ask for the IP 192.168.254.1 Update (02/11/2016): Be sure you use the correct IP 192.168.254.1 (This is to add the address to the ethernet setup found in the control panel. At this point you should double check to make sure the ip is correct. This IP address is to let Windows know a new ethernet device is on the computer and here is it's address.The next empty box is for the subnet IP. Put 255.255.255.0 The software is already in the beaglebone....using whatever browser you have on your computer,when you enter the ip for the browser( the IP will end in one).(192.168.254.1) This ip was installed at beaglebone That is the beaglebone's built in IP be sure you put in the correct number. Since the input boxes are empty for you to put the IP for the address you are going to install, You can install the IP for windows. It is the address that you can put in the box for the IP but the IP is blank so put in...

there are two ip's the other is the address to gain access to the rov it's 192.168.254.1:8080 no don't change the "1" this second ip is used with chrome or whatever browser you use

Travis, Brightness helps but experience with buiding kits is a major factor in coming up with a time to assemble. I say this because I used to work for Heathkit as a tech and I could build a full size compter (old style with the monitor and keyboard all in one case. When I started building them for customers it would take me a week at least and that was stepping through a well laid out assembley manual. At my peak I put assemble 3 in a day without any manual. If you are familiar with kits figure (factoring what you use your time for) about 10 days to do it RIGHT. Careful work and well laid out wiring makes a huge difference over ignoring things that make problems. It's important to have things not included in the kit such as silicone grease/spray tools (glue gun, top notch soldering station and a few other things you may have to order or shop for and that adds to time. Once you have everything you need to do the job and have the time figure 4 days unless you want to work from morning to evening. Assuming...

As long as you reverse the other end of the wires (red now is the black and black is now for the red. One thing you might try is to use desoldering braid (radio shack has some if you can find a radio shack still in business as "RS" is going out of business) Desoldering braid is available at just about any electronics supply house. If you are not familiar with how to use the braid it's similar to a sponge. You just put the braid over the solder you want to remove and then place the soldering iron on the braid. Once warmed, the solder gets "sipped" on to the braid. If kept on the braid will remove all the solder. Just don't overheat the braid it can damage delicate solder joints if you overheat the joint.

examine solderjoint and be sure to use the water proof shrink wrap I suggest you user some clear windshileld silicone cement THEN put the blue shrink wrap over the whole stack of 8 wires. This should give a very good waterproof seal between the solder joint and the point at which the joint buts write up to the enamal on the rotor.