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Guide 4 - Wire Routing

Written By: OpenROV

Comments: 47
Favorites: 0
Completions: 32

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

181

Time Required

5 hours

Introduction

You will gain more soldering experience while connecting all of the motors. We will also introduce the use of waterproof heatshrink.

Tools

Parts

No parts required.

Step 2

Loosen these two set screws but do not completely remove them.

Loosen these two set screws but do not completely remove them.
Remove the mount from the motor.

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Step 3

For this section it will be helpful to work over a paper towel or cloth in case you drop screws or nuts.

For this section it will be helpful to work over a paper towel or cloth in case you drop screws or nuts.

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Step 4

Notice the notch in the mount is facing up in the picture.

Notice the notch in the mount is facing up in the picture.

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Step 5

Make sure to put a lock washer behind the nut.

Make sure to put a lock washer behind the nut.
Only three of the screw holes will line up.

Edit

Indeed you have to be really careful to tight the nuts without braking the acrylic. It happens with me, so i put some of this acrylic glue on it to close and fix the brakes. Hope this will work for a while …

Andreas Franz - September 16 Reply

Step 6

Notice which side the notch is on.

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Step 7

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Step 8 Motor Preparation

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Step 9

There are two different types of insulation on the motors. You might have a combination of both types so check each motor.

There are two different types of insulation on the motors. You might have a combination of both types so check each motor.
The first type has writing on the insulation and is sealed on the inside. No further preparation work is needed. Skip to the Mounting Propellers section.
The second type has no writing on the insulation and is not sealed on the inside. There are a few preparation steps that must be completed in order to ensure a waterproof connection.

Edit

So if there is no insulation , there is a risk of water getting inside..?

or why not solder just the tinned ends and shrink-wrap them….?

Even with no insulation, soldering the tinned ends, with just the shrink around the complete wire should seal them…? or why strip them in 3 Stages..?

Thks

Roel

Roel Haagmans - 12/22/2015 Reply

If you have the motors with the looser insulation (blue boxes), the tinned section extends down farther than just the exposed lead. If you do not strip back the insulation far enough to the enamel coating then water can travel up from the motor side of the insulation and cause a short between the leads because there would be exposed tinned metal. The three sections (step 14) is just to show that it might take more than one try to get all the way to the enamel section. It might only take you one time. I hope this helps and please comment back if you have additional questions. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 12/23/2015

Step 10

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Step 11

Using your fingernails you can remove the insulation a little at a time. You need to remove enough to expose the enamel.

Using your fingernails you can remove the insulation a little at a time. You need to remove enough to expose the enamel.

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Step 12

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Step 13

Copper wire tinned with solder (silver in color). Not safe from water.

Copper wire tinned with solder (silver in color). Not safe from water.
Bare wire (dull copper). Also not safe from water.
Enamel coated wire (shiny, wet-looking copper). Safe from water.

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Step 14

Peel back the insulation until you can see the enamel coating for each of the wires.

Peel back the insulation until you can see the enamel coating for each of the wires.
The amount you have to peel back will vary.

Edit

The first of my motors insulation stripped off wire fine. The second and third not so much. The insulation seemed tougher and fingernail strippers wouldn't cut through. I think pulled one or two of the wires from the stator. Grrrrrr . Is there a fix or should I just replace them?

Mark Wolff - 11/23/2015 Reply

Please reach out to our support team who can help you determine the best course of action. https://openrov.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/req... -Brian G.

OpenROV - 11/27/2015

Step 15

Cut off some of the tinned wire, but not all of it.

Cut off some of the tinned wire, but not all of it.

Edit

I accidentally cut off all of the tinned wire for one of my motors wire, like all of it completely off. Can I get by without it or is it absolutely necessary?

Trenton Webster - 07/18/2016 Reply

If you sand off some of the enamel of the wire you should get back to bare wire that you can solder to. If you have additional issues, please send an email to support@openrov.com -Brian G.

OpenROV - 07/19/2016 Reply

Step 16

Complete this process for all three wires and for all motors of this type.

Complete this process for all three wires and for all motors of this type.

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Step 17

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Step 18 Mounting Propellers

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Step 19

Remove the existing nuts and washers from the threaded rod on all three motor bells.

Remove the existing nuts and washers from the threaded rod on all three motor bells.
Using a set of pliers, hold stationary the locknut (with the nylon insert) and rotate the motor bell to thread the nut until it protrudes out the other side.

Edit

It's better use a small 7/32 ratchet to prevent dents on the nut by working with the pliers

Henry Arismendi - 11/12/2016 Reply

Step 20

Take off the nut, then put it back on backwards, nylon side first.

Take off the nut, then put it back on backwards, nylon side first.

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Step 21

Tighten the propeller very snugly.

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Step 22

Back the locknut up against the propeller while holding the bell in one hand.

Back the locknut up against the propeller while holding the bell in one hand.
Tighten this very snugly.

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Step 23

Complete for all three motors. Note that there are three different types of propellers.

Complete for all three motors. Note that there are three different types of propellers.

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Step 24 Wire Routing Part 1

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Step 25

Use the length of the frame to measure out a length of the mesh covering.

Use the length of the frame to measure out a length of the mesh covering.
Keep the extra as you will need it later.

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Step 26

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Step 27

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Step 28

Push the sleeve all the way over the wires and towards the endcap.

Push the sleeve all the way over the wires and towards the endcap.

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Step 29

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Step 30

Use electrical tape to cover the frayed end and hold the mesh in place.

Use electrical tape to cover the frayed end and hold the mesh in place.

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Possible to use heat shrink tubes, instead of tape? That's what I'm using on my electrical systems on my aircraft.

RuneSoldal - 09/16/2015 Reply

Yes heat shrink would work as well if you want to use it. Electrical tape is more common and easier to find around the world which is why we selected it.

OpenROV - 09/18/2015

Step 31

Remove the tape from the end of the wires.

Remove the tape from the end of the wires.

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Step 32

Stretch the mesh up and use electrical tape to hold the other side in place.

Stretch the mesh up and use electrical tape to hold the other side in place.

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Step 33

The flat sides of the endcap should be against the main structure.

The flat sides of the endcap should be against the main structure.

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Step 34

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Step 35

Separate out these wires.

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I suggest mentioning that the green wires to be separated are both LIGHT green; one with the black stripe and one without. On my monitor, the difference is not clear.

Josh Stein - 07/14/2016 Reply

Thank you for the feedback on the directions. I will work on getting this updated (have to do it across all languages so it takes a little time) -Brian G.

OpenROV - 07/19/2016

Step 36

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Step 37

Wire bundle going towards middle of the frame.

Wire bundle going towards middle of the frame.
Light green wires are going straight up.

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Step 38

Tighten the ziptie.

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Step 39

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Step 40

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Step 41

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Step 42

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Step 43

Make sure to melt the heatshrink completely so the adhesive on the inside completely melts and comes out both ends.

Make sure to melt the heatshrink completely so the adhesive on the inside completely melts and comes out both ends.
These 4 wires are the I2C wires to connect external sensors to your ROV including our IMU/Depth Sensor.
The heatshrink at the end is to protect the wires from the water until you need to use them.

Edit

I assume blistering the wires with the heat gun is a bad thing because it might expose the wire underneath -- maybe a warning hear about that?

Adrian Cotter - 08/17/2016 Reply

Are there directions for attaching the IMU/Depth Sensor to the purple ROV wires?

Kyle - June 8 Reply

The purple wires are a power PWM channel and the IMU/Depth sensor will not work if you attach them to those wires. -Brian G.

OpenROV - July 28

The purple wires are a power PWM channel and the IMU/Depth sensor will not work if you attach them to those wires. -Brian G.

OpenROV - July 28

Step 44

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Step 45

Light green wires going straight up.

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Step 46 Starboard Motor

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You have port and starboard reversed. The motor indicated is on the right looking BACKWARD, so it's the port motor. Now I don't know whether to trust the choice of propellor or wire color..

Steve Ryan - 06/10/2016 Reply

I missed the deadline to edit the comment - maybe this will save someone some time.

After reading more comments on other steps I finally realized that the frame is upside down during all of these steps and images, which of course reverses port and starboard.

Bottom line: the instructions seemed wrong but they are correct.

Steve Ryan - 06/10/2016

Step 47

The horizontal propellers are counterrotating, so the pitch is in a different direction for each one.

The horizontal propellers are counterrotating, so the pitch is in a different direction for each one.
Make sure to grab the correct motor.
The reason the pitch is different is to keep the vehicle going straight and not veering to one side.
A tutorial on LH vs. RH propellers

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Step 48

There are two different shades of green wires.

There are two different shades of green wires.
- Motor wires (3x).
- Battery wires (2x).

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Step 49

The three wires from the motor will go through the ROV frame.

The three wires from the motor will go through the ROV frame.

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Be very careful here. the motor wires care delicate and too much movement can result in one of the strands breaking. We removed the heat shrink and soldered the wire back onto one of the remaining strands from the original wire. then used electronics grade silicone to seal the wire from water exposure. I would almost suggest removing the heat shrink from each motor and silicone the wires in place after securing it in place. This allows for easier placement, but also increases the risk of breaking a strand. Since we broke one, I feel our risk is equal.

Chuck Sekafetz - 01/19/2016 Reply

Could it possile that you have your propellers around wrong way in your pictures?

deon gillon - 03/30/2016 Reply

Can you clarify what you mean? -Brian G.

OpenROV - 04/01/2016

Step 50

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Step 51

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Step 52

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Step 53

Use caution when soldering electronic components. The temperatures are 500 degrees and higher. Eye protection is required.

Use caution when soldering electronic components. The temperatures are 500 degrees and higher. Eye protection is required.
It does not matter which colored wire from the motor goes to which green wire from the DB-25 connector.

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Step 54

Notice that the enamel is showing.

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Step 55

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Step 56

Make sure the inside lining is completely melted and oozes out each end.

Make sure the inside lining is completely melted and oozes out each end.

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Step 57

Make sure to tighten both screws.

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Step 58 Vertical Motor

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Step 59

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Step 60

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Step 61

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Step 62

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Step 63

It does not matter which colored wire from the motor goes to which blue wire from the DB-25 connector.

It does not matter which colored wire from the motor goes to which blue wire from the DB-25 connector.

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Step 64

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Step 65

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Step 66

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Step 67

Make sure to tighten both screws.

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Step 68 Port Motor

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Step 69

Note the pitch direction of the propeller.

Note the pitch direction of the propeller.
The horizontal propellers are counterrotating, so the pitch is in a different direction for each one.

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Step 70

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As I notice just now: red wires for the port side motor, green wires for the starboard motor … same colors as you are using on a vessel for port and starboard side

Andreas Franz - September 17 Reply

Step 71

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Step 72

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Step 73

It does not matter which colored wire from the motor goes to which red wire from the DB-25 connector.

It does not matter which colored wire from the motor goes to which red wire from the DB-25 connector.

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Step 74

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Step 75

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Step 76

Make sure to tighten both screws.

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Step 77 Wire Routing Part 2

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Step 78

Use the ziptie to secure all the wires.

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Step 79

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Step 80

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Step 81

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Step 82

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Step 83

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Step 84

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Step 85

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Step 86

You should have 6 auxiliary wires on this side. Ensure that you have only 6 wires.

You should have 6 auxiliary wires on this side. Ensure that you have only 6 wires.

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Step 87

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Step 88

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Step 89

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Step 90

Make sure to melt the heatshrink completely so the adhesive on the inside completely melts and comes out both ends.
These auxiliary wires are to connect external components to the ROV.
- The purple wires are connected to a power PWM channel.
- The white wires with the stripe are connected to a servo channel.
- The plain white wire can be user defined.
The heatshrink at the end is to protect the wires from the water until you need to use them.

Edit

Hi sorry could you suggest us some explanation or links were is possible to understand the possible use of these additional wire? These because to have a best future vision to enhance the rov utilization.

Ciao Sergio

SERGIO GIUSTI - 01/10/2016 Reply

The full board schematic might help (https://github.com/OpenROV/openrov-elect...). Examples would be the PWM channel can be used to control external lights (http://store.openrov.com/products/extern...) and the servo channel can be used to control an external servo (http://store.openrov.com/products/protot...). If you have additional questions I would encourage you to post your questions on our Forum (https://forum.openrov.com/). -Brian G.

OpenROV - 01/11/2016

Step 91

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Step 92

Cut off the ends of the zipties. There are 6 in total.

Cut off the ends of the zipties. There are 6 in total.

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Step 93

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Step 94 Battery Tube Preparation

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Step 95

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Step 96

Peel off the paper backing.

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Step 97

When working with acrylic cement it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

When working with acrylic cement it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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Step 98

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Step 99

Use superglue.
When working with cyanoacrylate (super glue) it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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Step 100

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Step 101

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Why use not acrylic cement, you are using it also to glue the caps in step 130 into the tubes...?

Roel Haagmans - 01/01/2016 Reply

The different glues are doing different things. In step 101 the super glue is providing the mechanical bond between the different plastics. This joint needs to be strong in order to hold the front endcap on. In step 130 this acrylic cement is not providing any mechanical support, just sealing the gap so epoxy does not flow through during the potting process. The super glue is to thick and does not run all the way around in order to provide a good seal when the epoxy is used. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 01/04/2016

Thanks Brian, very clear!

Roel Haagmans - 01/07/2016

Yes, actually (i think by mistake) I used the cement for this step. And the end cap ring popped off at some point ( Luckily while preparing the dive :) ) and i reglued it with super glue.

Fe3C - 01/20/2016

Step 102

Apply pressure to the outside ring so it is flush with the front of the tube.

Apply pressure to the outside ring so it is flush with the front of the tube.
Don't let this sit in this position to dry or it will become stuck to the paper towel.
If any glue got on the inside of the tube, wipe it off.

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Step 103

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Step 104

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Step 105 Port Battery Tube Back

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Step 106

Use the opposite side motor to measure the length.

Use the opposite side motor to measure the length.
Cut only the wire with the black stripe.
Do not cut the solid orange wire.

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Step 107

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Step 108

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Step 109

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Step 110

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Step 111

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Step 112

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Step 113

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Step 114

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Step 115

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Step 116

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Step 117

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Step 118

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Step 119

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Step 120

Do your best to make these parts concentric.

Do your best to make these parts concentric.

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Step 121

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Step 122

Make sure the wire goes through the bigger of the two holes.

Make sure the wire goes through the bigger of the two holes.

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Step 123

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Step 124

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Step 125

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Step 126

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Step 127

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Step 128

If the battery tube is a little tight you can sand the inside corner to debur the edge.

If the battery tube is a little tight you can sand the inside corner to debur the edge.

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Step 129

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Step 130

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See my comment step 100..

Here acrylic is used... In step 100 the rapid glue..?

Roel

Roel Haagmans - 01/01/2016 Reply

See comment in your other comment on step 101.

OpenROV - 01/04/2016

Step 131

Make sure cement is the entire way around.

Make sure cement is the entire way around.

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Step 132

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Step 133 Starboard Battery Tube Back

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Step 134

Use the center of the opposite motor for your measured length.

Use the center of the opposite motor for your measured length.
Cut only the wire with the black stripe.
Do not cut the solid green wire.

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Step 135

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Step 136

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Step 137

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Step 138

Bend towards the same side as the bump.

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Step 139

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Step 140

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Step 141

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Step 142

Do your best to make these parts concentric.

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Step 143

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Step 144

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Step 145

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Step 146

Some pressure will be needed in order to push the back side in the battery tube.

Some pressure will be needed in order to push the back side in the battery tube.

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Step 147

Make sure cement is the entire way around.

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Step 148

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Step 149

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Step 150 Port Battery Tube Front

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Step 151

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Step 152

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Step 153

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Step 154

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Step 155

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Step 156

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Step 157

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Step 158

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Step 159

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what type of adhesive is used in step 159 & 168 ??

Bob Barlics - 07/25/2016 Reply

Cyanoacrylate (more commonly known as super glue) -Brian G.

OpenROV - 07/26/2016

Step 160

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Step 161

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Step 162 Starboard Battery Tube Front

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Step 163

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Step 164

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Step 165

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Step 166

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Step 167

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Step 168

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Step 169

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Step 170

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Step 171 Battery Tube Epoxy

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Step 172

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Step 173

Use epoxy to fill the end of the battery tube.

Use epoxy to fill the end of the battery tube.
When working with epoxy it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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Step 174

The epoxy will flow through the entire cavity.

The epoxy will flow through the entire cavity.

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Step 175

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Step 176

Fill until it comes out of the hole with the wires.

Fill until it comes out of the hole with the wires.

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Step 177

Wipe off any epoxy that has oozed out.
The epoxy will settle after a while and the level in the hole will go down. Check back after 30 minutes and fill with more epoxy in this hole.

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Step 178

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Step 179

The epoxy will settle after a while and the level in the hole will go down. Check back after 30 minutes and fill with more epoxy in this hole.

The epoxy will settle after a while and the level in the hole will go down. Check back after 30 minutes and fill with more epoxy in this hole.

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Step 180

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Step 181 Continue Your Build

Continue your build by progressing to Guide 5.

Continue your build by progressing to Guide 5.

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Finish Line

32 other people completed this guide.

Author

OpenROV

Member since: 09/28/2013

26,061 Reputation

36 Guides authored

Team

OpenROV Internal Member of OpenROV Internal

Community

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15 Comments

Add a comment

After the step 104 the guide should recommend to bevel the inner edges of the battery tubes, in order to avoid damage to the o-ring.

At the step 102, special care must be taken when using the superglue; I didn't realize a small drop of glue at the inner part of the tube and it was a big headache to cleanup later, without damaging the tube.

Jo Tanaami - 10/04/2015 Reply

Thank you for the comment and suggestions. We have added a note about the glue in the guide and will work on adding the chamfer on the end of the battery tube. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 10/08/2015

At Step 13 wouldn't it be logical to tell folks that they can use continuity test for enamel instead of just visual inspection?

brian - 10/17/2015 Reply

Thank you for the suggestion. This is another way to do this. We do not require a multimeter for the build, so most people do not have one to conduct this test. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 10/19/2015

Step 35 - Impressed with the step-by-step as a whole, but really you should put text support or enlarged image of insulation marks when separating conductors AND adding which pin they map to for completeness and accounting for better/poorer eyesight.

brian - 10/17/2015 Reply

Thank you for the suggestion. We will look into this for future guides. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 10/19/2015

Step 45 - I think you forgot to mention to mount the motor. Your pictures are correct, but I think you meant to say Port motor? As in it is on the port side, but powering it will cause a starboard turn?

brian - 10/17/2015 Reply

For this part of the build the ROV is upside down. This is why it might seem that port and starboard are backwards, but they are actually correct. The motor is also mounted later in that section, step 57.

OpenROV - 10/19/2015

Step 64 - Some of my motor leads had VERY long sections without enamel, since you guys aren't overly generous with the sealing heatshrink I had to cut way back and then sand paper the section with dodgy enamel covering to get all strands conductive, tinned that, then made the connection. Might be helpful to add warning or procedure and a bit more heatshrink.

brian - 10/17/2015 Reply

This is a completely ok way to do it as well, but there should be enough heatshrink in the kit. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 10/19/2015

Oops! I was out of line on the heatshrink comment. Found some more on the floor!

brian - 10/17/2015 Reply

Glad you were able to find the heatshrink :) -Brian G.

OpenROV - 10/19/2015

Starboard and Port are swapped in sections beginning at step(s) 46 & 68.

Laughlin - 04/05/2016 Reply

Keep in mind that the ROV is upside down in this section. -Brian G.

OpenROV - 04/07/2016

canada is a myth

Canadian Bert - April 14 Reply

Guide 4 - Wire Routing

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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