Site Navigation

Your Account

Choose Language

Guide 3 - Finishing

In Progress

In Progress

This guide is currently being written. Reload periodically to see the latest changes.

  • Author: OpenROV
  • Time estimate: 30 minutes - 1 hour
  • Difficulty: Moderate

These are the instructions for putting together your Pro Camera-HD Upgrade. You can purchase this product from our store.

Edit Step 1 Guide 3 - Finishing  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 1 Guide 3 - Finishing  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Create a "Laser Calibration Station" (Piece of paper with two X's that are 10cm apart in a straight line).

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • There are two lasers that we are going to mount to the ROV. These laser beams will be 10cm apart and be parallel. When turned on underwater the dots will always be 10cm apart acting as a scale for underwater measurements.

  • Create a "Laser Calibration Station" (Piece of paper with two X's that are 10cm apart in a straight line).

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Place your calibration sheet 3-4 meters away from your e-chassis lasers with the bottom X on sheet at the same height from the ground as the laser on the ROV.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Focused laser.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Turn on the lasers by pressing "L" on your keyboard.

  • Focused laser.

  • Unfocused laser.

  • Lasers can be dangerous if they shine directly at your eyes. Learn more than you ever wanted to know about laser safety here.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Twist the front part of the laser in order to focus it.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • When working with cyanoacrylate (super glue) it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • When working with cyanoacrylate (super glue) it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Only put glue on these sections, not on the sides.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • |

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • While the glue is drying do not put the electronics chassis in your ROV. The fumes will cause the inside of your tube to cloud, damaging it. Wait at least 1 hour before final assembly.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/1: This camera runs warmer than the previous camera. When operating we recommend letting the camera warm up the air in the tube before completely sealing it, otherwise there is pressure  that can cause the endcaps to pop off.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Once your ROV is fully assembled, you may need to change the buoyancy and ballast on it to make sure it is neutrally buoyant in water.

  • This camera runs warmer than the previous camera. When operating we recommend letting the camera warm up the air in the tube before completely sealing it, otherwise there is pressure that can cause the endcaps to pop off.

    • To do this, turn your system on, remove the vent syringe in one of the endcaps and let your ROV sit for 30 minutes. This will warm the air and letting the built up pressure escape.

    • Make sure you insert the syringe before your dive!

  • Congratulations on finishing the build, if you run into any issues during operation please email us at support@openrov.com

You're Done!

0 Comments

No comments.

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 0

Past 7 Days: 6

Past 30 Days: 20

All Time: 354