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Guide 2 - Electronics Tube Endcaps

Written By: OpenROV (Sofar)
  • Comments: 47
  • Favorites: 0
  • Completions: 50

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

71

Time Required

02:00:00

Sections

1

Flags

0

Introduction

You should have a good understanding of how acrylic cement works at this point. We are now going to introduce the use of epoxy. The epoxy acts as a barrier to the water and allows wires to "pass through" the endcaps.

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  2. Cut just past the plunger stopping point and at the 2.0 mL mark.

    • Cut just past the plunger stopping point and at the 2.0 mL mark.

    • The cut on the left needs to be to the left of the end point of the syringe so it will have a place to seal underwater.

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  3. Save the plunger. You will need it later.

    • Save the plunger. You will need it later.

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  4. Cut the syringe tube with a thin hacksaw blade.

    • Cut the syringe tube with a thin hacksaw blade.

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  6. Make sure to sand both ends.

    • Make sure to sand both ends.

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  8. Use a paper towel to clean out the inside.

    • Use a paper towel to clean out the inside.

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  11. The endcaps have a large surface area that needs to be cemented together.

    • The endcaps have a large surface area that needs to be cemented together.

    • The best method of cementing the endcap parts together is as follows:

    • Note: These pieces are for demonstration purposes only. While holding one side, place the needle of the applicator between the two surfaces to be cemented.

    • Add a liberal amount of cement. The goal is to have cement completely filling the gap between the surfaces. Any excess or spills will evaporate quickly or can be wiped away.

    • Apply slight pressure with both hands while the cement cures.

    • Add acrylic cement around the entire edge of the newly cemented parts to ensure that they are completely joined.

    • Clean any excess off with a paper towel or cloth.

    • When working with acrylic cement it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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  12. You are not going to use this piece right now.

    • You are not going to use this piece right now.

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  15. The hole is on the left side of the rectangular opening

    • The hole is on the left side of the rectangular opening

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  16. When working with acrylic cement it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

    • When working with acrylic cement it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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  17. Make sure the holes are lined up.

    • Make sure the holes are lined up.

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  19. Make sure the opening is to the right side.

    • Make sure the opening is to the right side.

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  20. Make sure the opening is to the right side.

    • Make sure the opening is to the right side.

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  27. Closed side of syringe down and flush with 3mm piece.

    • Closed side of syringe down and flush with 3mm piece.

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  28. Open side of syringe up.

    • Open side of syringe up.

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  33. Angled part is to the right.

    • Angled part is to the right.

    • The disk should be centered with the syringe.

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  38. The DB-25 connector connects all the electrical components to the controller board.

    • The DB-25 connector connects all the electrical components to the controller board.

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  42. Use superglue to connect the DB-25 to the acrylic. This bond will also help the epoxy flow in a later step.

    • Use superglue to connect the DB-25 to the acrylic. This bond will also help the epoxy flow in a later step.

    • When working with cyanoacrylate (super glue) it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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  44. Do not get glue in this hole.

    • Do not get glue in this hole.

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  47. It is very important that the DB-25 is completely flat.

    • It is very important that the DB-25 is completely flat.

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  48. Wait until the superglue has completely dried before completing this step.

    • Wait until the superglue has completely dried before completing this step.

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  49. These wires need to be flat and not protrude past the top piece.

    • These wires need to be flat and not protrude past the top piece.

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  50. Double check that the wires are flat.

    • Double check that the wires are flat.

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  51. Make sure to press down on the white piece directly over where the wires are during the entire time that the cement is drying.

    • Make sure to press down on the white piece directly over where the wires are during the entire time that the cement is drying.

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  52. You will use epoxy to create permanent waterproofing for the endcaps. There are a few things you want to keep in mind:

    • You will use epoxy to create permanent waterproofing for the endcaps. There are a few things you want to keep in mind:

    • The epoxy has two parts that mix in the nozzle to get an even distribution.

    • Before you open the tube hold it upside down to allow the air bubble to travel to the top. Air mixed in the epoxy can cause issues.

    • Remove the cap, as well as the tip and then install the mixing nozzle.

    • The first part of the epoxy might not be properly mixed so squirt out a little to make sure that the epoxy you do use is evenly mixed.

    • Wear gloves when handling epoxy and have paper towels on hand to clean any surfaces that it happens to drip on.

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  53. Now we are going to use the epoxy.

    • Now we are going to use the epoxy.

    • When working with epoxy it is recommended that you wear gloves, safety glasses, and work in a ventilated area.

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  58. You will fill the wire cavity with epoxy through this hole. It is designed to allow the epoxy to flow through.

    • You will fill the wire cavity with epoxy through this hole. It is designed to allow the epoxy to flow through.

    • The epoxy will settle after a while and the level in the hole will go down. Check back after 30 minutes and fill with more epoxy in this hole.

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  59. The epoxy will flow around all the wires. Make sure to wiggle the wires around so the epoxy gets in between them all.

    • The epoxy will flow around all the wires. Make sure to wiggle the wires around so the epoxy gets in between them all.

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  60. If epoxy leaks from around the metal part of this connector, use a paper towel to wipe it up before it hardens.

    • If epoxy leaks from around the metal part of this connector, use a paper towel to wipe it up before it hardens.

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  67. Fill until epoxy comes out this end.

    • Fill until epoxy comes out this end.

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  72. Continue your build by progressing to Guide 3.

    • Continue your build by progressing to Guide 3.

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Finish Line

50 other people completed this guide.

Author

OpenROV (Sofar)

Member since: 09/28/2013

28,645 Reputation

37 Guides authored

Team

OpenROV Internal Member of OpenROV Internal

Community

1 Member

37 Guides authored

12 Comments

Add a comment

HELP!!!! STEP 11 is confusing me!!! We don't have any endcap pieces that look like the ones in that picture. I'm starting to think that the illustrations from STEP 11 are from an earlier (maybe a 2.6???) version of the OpenROV. Can someone please confirm this?

We don't want to continue if we are missing pieces needed for our build

Joey Maier - Reply

Those pieces in Step 11 are for demonstration purposes only to explain the concept. Starting at Step 12 you should have all of those parts (yours will be clear though instead of smoked colored). -Brian G.

OpenROV (Sofar) -

I had to do some tipping to get theair bubbles out of the wire wet port. By taping off the connector side hole and tipping the air bubble to the wire side I was able to inject a second time which pushed all the air out. Next time I would inject from the bottom with the angular side upwards.

cmacphee - Reply

Thank you for the feedback! -Brian G.

OpenROV (Sofar) -

Step 32 Is there a good technique to assure these pieces are centered on the syringe? The previous section used the motor shaft to assure alignment, but that isn't an option here. The hole diameter on the larger pieces is much bigger than the syringe, so using the syringe as an alignment jig won't work either.

Josh Stein - Reply

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